Wednesday, March 7, 2018

Compost

3/15/18 Put some compost in a bucket and added water. Tomorrow I will have a good stew to water my veggies with.

3/7/18 I've had a good compost pile for a number of weeks and I have turned it a couple of times. Today I took it to the next level with closer to the appropriate percentage of the various components. Speedy Rogers gave me a bag of mixed mulched leaves and grass clippings. That was about 30% of my pile. I turned the pile and made layers, watering each layer. Also added torn up newspaper. The finished pile is approx 1 cu yd (3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft). Here's the article from finegardening.com:
25% high-nitrogen ingredients - early-season grass clippings, alfalfa, pea, clover, bean plant residues
45% green ingredients -- grass clippings, green plant debris, kitchen scraps, coffee grounds.
30% woody ingredients -- wood chips, sawdust, paper plates, paper towels, shredded newspaper.
Here's part of the article from finegardening.com:
For bacteria to dominate, compost should be made from a preponderance of green materials. You need a mix of 25 percent high-nitrogen ingredients, 45 percent green ingredients, and 30 percent woody material. High-nitrogen materials include manure and legumes, such as alfalfa, pea, clover, or bean plant residues. Grass clippings from the first two or three cuttings in spring, when the blades are lush and tender, qualify as high-nitrogen; the rest of the season, they're simply green material. Green material includes any green plant debris, kitchen scraps, and coffee grounds, which, although brown in color, contain sugars and proteins that bacteria love. Woody material includes wood chips, sawdust, paper plates and towels, and shredded newspaper.
When making compost, measure your ingredients by volume. Try to mix a whole pile at a time. To get it up to temperature and keep it there, you need a mass that measures at least one cubic yard. Moisten the pile as you make it so that it is damp but not wet. An easy way to tell is to pick up a handful of the material and squeeze it as hard as you can; only one or two drops should be squeezed out. Less than that, add water; more than that, let it dry out.
Once the pile is made, you can add kitchen scraps as they accumulate. Bury them in the center in different places to help maintain heat in the pile. Small additions don't upset the ratio. If needed, you can balance the green additions with shredded newspaper or wood shavings.

A good compost pile really cooks

The pile will heat up right away, as microorganisms start breaking down the material. The pile must stay between 135°F and 160°F for three days. At 135°F, weed seeds, human pathogens, most plant pathogens, and most root-feeding nematodes are killed. The pile shouldn't go above 160°F because at that temperature large numbers of the beneficial organisms begin to be killed.
Within a day or two, the center should reach 135°F. Measure the temperature with a long-stemmed thermometer. A 20-inch compost thermometer is nice but not necessary; I use my turkey thermometer. Just be sure to stick the probe deep into the center of the pile. Take two or three readings from several areas of the pile each day for the first week when you first start making compost, so you get a feeling for what is normal. If you make the same mix again and again, after several batches you won't have to monitor quite so closely.
When the temperature gets to about 155°F, turn the pile with a pitchfork or a shovel. This mixes the cooler materials on the outside to the center and brings air into the pile, preventing anaerobic conditions. Within a day or so, the pile will be back up to 155°F, and you'll need to turn it again. Expect to turn the pile every day or two for about the first week to get it and keep it in the 135° to 155°F range. After that, you can let it alone, maybe turning it once or twice more during the next few weeks. The more you turn the pile, the more the compost tends to become bacterial. That's because any kind of disturbance destroys fungi by breaking up their mycelia and helps the bacteria beat the fungi by bringing the foods bacteria need into range for the tiny individual bacteria.
As the compost matures, the temperature will drop gradually until, after six to eight weeks, the center of the pile is cool or barely warm to the touch. The compost is now ready.

Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Chives

Planted seeds in large pot on 3/4/18

Mint

Planted 3 plants of Sweet Mint in large pot on 2/22/18

3/15/18 Doing very well. Green and lively.

Rosemary

Planted in large pot on 2/22/18

3/15/18 Doing very well

Basil

2/22/18 Planted 3 basil plants in large pot.

3/14/18 Took off black, damaged leaves. Not sure the cause.

Cilantro

2/22/18 Planted 3 plants in large pot.

3/15/18 Doing great. I had to replace the original 3 plants (they are very tender), and this batch is green and lively.

Satsuma (oranges)

3/15/18 Lots of pollinators, lots of blooms.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Pic taken 3/3/18

Oh satsuma, how I love you! You make such excellent juice!

Satsuma is blooming and has over 100 blooms, even after the hard freeze. Quite a difference from last year's 1 orange.

Fertilized 3/5/18 w/Jobe's citrus fertizer spikes. Watered extremely well. Pounded in 5 spikes around satsuma tree based on diameter of 3.8" (12" trunk circumference). Watered in well. Repeat watering in 1 month. Spikes last 3 months.

Lemons

3/15/18 Lots of blooms, lots of pollinators.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Pic taken 3/3/18
Lemon tree is blooming and has hundreds of blooms (way too many!) Lemon blooms smell amazing!

Fertilized 3/5/18 w/Jobe's citrus fertizer spikes. Watered extremely well. Pounded in 3 spikes around lemon tree based on diameter of 6.6" (21" trunk circumference). (I used fewer spikes because I really don't want more lemons, and the grapefruit tree is one I want to actually encourage.) Watered in well. Repeat watering in 1 month. Spikes last 3 months.

Grapefruit

3/15/18 Lots of blooms, lots of pollinators.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Pic taken 3/3/18
Grapefruit is blooming and has hundreds of blooms! It smells heavenly out there!

Fertilized 3/5/18 w/Jobe's citrus fertizer spikes. Watered extremely well. Pounded in 5 spikes around grapefruit tree based on diameter of 4.4" (14" trunk circumference). Watered in well. Repeat watering in 1 month. Spikes last 3 months.

Garden overall

3/15/18 Garden doing very well. Had to spray Sevin today just to keep ahead of the bugs. About a week ago sprayed Organicide but not sure if it did any good.
Pic taken 3/15/18


2/22/18 Planted garden. Tomatoes, peppers, onions, carrots, potatoes, cilantro, basil, rosemary, sweet mint.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Tomatoes

3/15/18 Green and vigorous.

3/8/18 Gently tied up stalks to tops of tomato cages. Keeping branches from touching the ground.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Pic taken 3/3/18

2/22/18  Planted 8 tomato plants, all Bonnie Original, the $6.50 size, fairly large, from Lowe's. Instructions: Dig 1-ft hole. Drop in a little fertilizer. Add compost and a little soil. Add plant, fill in dirt. Water.

Peppers

3/15/18 Planted three little plants together, and they're doing great.

Dig 1-ft hole. Drop in a little fertilizer. Add compost and a little soil. Add plant, fill in dirt. Water.

Onions

3/15/18 The original onions are doing great! Planted some more, 4" below the soil and tops are emerging! I'm hoping these will yield bigger onions since they're all the way underground. We'll see.

Pic taken 3/15/18. First batch of onions. These were planted an inch in the ground, with the tops sticking out.

Pic taken 3/15/18. Onions that were planted 4" deep.
Pic taken 3/3/18

Pic taken 3/3/18
On 2/22/18, planted most of 75-set mixed onion bag (from Lowe's) this way: Get site ready with fine, loose soil. Dig in some fertilizer, cover with soil, push little bulbs about 1" into soil, root side down. Keep well watered.

On 3/4/18, planted the rest of the onion sets 4" deep in loose soil, to maybe get snippable green onion tops

Potatoes

Pic taken 3/15/18. This is after hilling with additional 6" soil.
3/15/18 Potatoes doing great! Had to hill them, adding six inches of dirt so potatoes have room to form between plant and top of seed potato. Took two hrs just to rake/sweep up dirt on top of black plastic and dump it on the potatoes. It took about 1/2 of a 5-gal bucket per plant, and then some. After dumping, relocated buried leaves/stems, shook off and watered off dirt, watered potato patch.

Pic taken 3/3/18
2/5/18  Dug ditches for potatoes and other crops. Cut seed potatoes (from Tractor Supply) into 1" to 2" squares. Put on wire rack to dry/scab over. Instructions: Dig 12" ditch. Sprinkle a little fertilizer, then put in some fine, loose soil. Place seed potatoes eyes side up and cover with 4" of soil. Water.

2/15/18 Potatoes are up!

3/5/18 Potatoes are about 8" high. Pushed about 4" of dirt around bottom of potato plants to enable potatoes to form w/o pushing out of soil.

Carrots

Pic taken 3/15/18 before thinning to approx 1" apart.
 Pics taken 3/3/18
Carrots.  Planted 2/22/18. Came up 2/28/18. Scarlet nandes. Directions: Make soil very fine and loose. Dig in some fertilizer and compost. Sprinkle seeds on top, cover w/1/2" loose soil.